Monday, May 16, 2016

WHERE WILL WE RETIRE IN MEXICO? La Peñita de Jaltemba or San Pancho, Maybe?

One More Step in Our Decision

     In my last blog post, I evaluated two of the eight towns and cities that we considered for our retirement home. I looked at the "Pros and Cons" for us to retire in San Carlos, Sonora or Mazatlan, Sinoloa. This article is our evaluation of two more of our favorite towns in Mexico, La Peñita de Jaltemba, Nayarit and San Francisco (San Pancho), Nayarit. Would one of these two be the town we would choose to retire in?
New Malecon in La Penita de Jaltemba 

LA PEÑITA DE JALTEMBA, NAYARIT


     La Peñita de Jaltemba, simply called La Peñita by the locals, is a very Mexican town, a small fishing village. Located on the Jaltemba Bay, it has a sandy beach but, when we have spent time there, it was not busy with tourists. There is a new Malecón painted with the Nayarit state logo, a nice raised promenade with palm trees, pretty street lights, and benches placed the length of it that face out to the Pacific Ocean. Families gather here during the day, at sunset, and after dark to enjoy the sea breeze, to let the children play, and to talk and relax. There are steep ramps from the Malecón down to the beach on the ocean side, but it seems most people walk on the raised promenade. To read my blog article about our stay in La Peñita in 2014, click HERE .
     While staying there, I asked myself often, why do some North Americans choose La Peñita as their winter home? The main reason seems to be that the U.S. and Canadian dollars go a long way living in this Mexican town. In addition, this is a place where folks from north of the border can feel comfortable and safe living in a small Mexican town, yet surrounded by enough other gringos to have plenty of opportunities to socialize with each other. It does not have the amenities of a tourist town but is close enough to Rincon de Guayabitos, Puerto Vallarta, San Pancho, and Sayulita to go for a day trip.
La Penita Sunset from Little Rigs RV Park
Getting to La 
Peñita
     The closest international airport is Licenciado Gustavo Diaz Ordaz in Puerto Vallarta (PVR), Jalisco. It is a 60 to 75 minute taxi ride, depending on traffic, south to the airport. In order to take the bus from the airport to La Peñita, one bus transfer would be necessary.
La Penita is About 960 Miles South of the Border by Road 
Here are the things we like about La Peñita de Jaltemba:
1.      It is a small, very Mexican fishing town, rather quiet, with few tourists.
2.     The downtown (centro) is pleasant. Located mostly along Avenida Emiliano Zapata, the main paved street through town, centro is lively with locals in the morning, mostly women, going about their business of shopping for the day’s supply of warm, buttery corn tortillas, whole red snapper caught that morning, and enough ripe, red tomatoes, onions, cilantro, peppers and whatever else is needed for the salsas and side dishes soon to be prepared. The men sit around on the benches or curbs chatting. The children walk to and from school in groups, laughing, talking and singing, and in the background is the happy sound of Latin music playing. The Avenida is two lanes divided by a central island for pedestrian traffic. Along the stamped concrete walkway are many pretty wrought iron benches for relaxing and people watching. Centro is the hub of this town, and always interesting.
3.      The new Malecón, though relatively short, is a nice place to sit and relax while listening to the gently lapping waves of the Pacific Ocean.
4.   Though the beach and waves are not often good for swimming, boogie-boarding, or surfing, as far as we could tell, the neighboring town of Rincon de Guayabitos is very good for these water activities. 
5.  We felt safe in La Peñita, even walking home after dark.
6.  We enjoyed the weather in La Peñita. It is more tropical than the more northern coastal cities of Mazatlán and San Carlos, so the humidity is higher and takes a little getting used to. After we adjusted to the humidity, we found that our skin, nails, and hair were healthier because the air did not dry them out. 
7.  The cost of housing is relatively low for a coastal town in the state of Nayarit.
8.  The cost of dining out is relatively low compared to the more touristy towns along the coast.
9.  The locals are very laid back and friendly to the North Americans in La Peñita. We always felt accepted in this town by the local merchants, by the restaurant owners, and by Mexicans walking on the street who greeted us as we passed. 
10.  It is a small enough town that it is easy for us to walk anywhere we need to go, and even across the “Bridge of Life” to nearby Rincon de Guayabitos during daylight hours.
11.  There is a small gringo population, with more Canadians than Americans, it seemed to us. We felt welcomed by the Canadians in this community.
12.  Popular with locals and out-of-towners for its Thursday Market, the largest collection of vendors in this area, north of Sayulita.
13. Groceries at the Maxi Super and Mini-Super markets downtown are very inexpensive.
14.  There are several pharmacies and banks in town.
15. There are at least two Zumba classes in town. Josh teaches Zumba classes several times a day, Monday through Friday, at his new studio on the east side of Highway 200 at the south end of La Peñita, across the highway from the intersection of Calle Francisco Villa (Francisco Villa Street). He also does a class called Powerjump on mini trampolines. 
16.  Rincon de Guayabitos, the sister city next door, is a taxi ride away and has many good restaurants, live music, and a nice beach with many palapa restaurants to have lunch, a beer, and hang out.
17.  Health care is available in the area with two small hospitals nearby, Real Nayar Hospital in La Peñita and San Pancho Hospital General. Larger medical centers are in Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara.
18.  Puerto Vallarta is 40 miles south if we need to shop at Home Depot, Mega, Wal-Mart, Office Depot, or other department stores or go watch a movie on the big screen.
19.  Campo de Ensuenos (Field of Dreams) Golf Course is just 6 miles south on Hwy 200. It’s public and inexpensive! It even has a clubhouse and serves lunch and drinks.
20.  The Plaza has recently received a face-lift, including a sweet dolphin sculpture and landscaped raised gardens edged with concrete seating areas. 
Typical Colorful Corner in Downtown La Penita

Here are the reasons we ruled out La Peñita de Jaltemba as our retirement home:
1.     La Peñita is too small and quiet for us. We like a little more action.
2.  The wave action at the beach was not sufficient for us to boogie-board (our favorite water sport!). We would have to take a trek with boards, umbrellas, chairs, Bella, and cooler in hand to Rincón de Guayabitos or Sayulita each time we wanted to boogie-board. That meant we wouldn’t do it very often. We wanted our waves a short walk away.
3.  The town felt dirty to us every time we have stayed there, dusty during dry periods, flooded and muddy when it rained. There is only one paved street through the middle of town. Many of the cobblestoned roads were in disrepair and full of potholes. In several neighborhoods, the roads were narrow, rutted dirt single lanes, meaning they were a muddy mess when it rained. Since we walk almost everywhere we go, and always in flip-flops, this is an important factor to us. A brown mud stripe splattered up the back of our calves when we reached downtown was not a pretty sight. Possibly the road conditions have improved in the past year since the government of Nayarit tends to put money into upgrading their seaside towns.
4.  The selection of restaurants is relatively small with little variety in types of food. We would need to travel by taxi or bus to nearby towns one or two times each week to go out to dinner as often as we like to. It seems we would be happier living in a town or city that is a bit larger.
5.  When we took our walks down the beach, it was dirty, littered with trash that had been tossed down or washed up by the waves, especially as we neared the downtown area. Daily beach clean-up did not appear to be happening in this town as is the trend in more touristy cities along the coast.
6.   La Peñita is too far from the airport for us, a 60 to 75 minute taxi ride, depending on traffic on the two-lane Hwy 200, traveling south to the airport. This makes the taxi ride expensive. In order to take the bus from the airport to La Peñita, one bus transfer would be necessary, and that was too time-consuming and cumbersome for us with luggage and Bella, our miniature dachshund.
7.  It is too far from the major medical centers and other services in Puerto Vallarta.
8.  A bus trip to shop or dine in Puerto Vallarta was too far from La Penita for us. There is no direct bus service from La Peñita to Puerto Vallarta, requiring a bus transfer, and the trip was too long. In order to shop at Mega Supermarket, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Office Depot, Liverpool Mall, or other department stores, it would require over one and one-half hours each way. We have decided to forego owning a car in Mexico to cut our expenses, so bus service is important to us. In addition, we always walk, bus, or take a taxi when going out for dinner so we won’t drive after drinking alcoholic beverages. Going to Puerto Vallarta from La Penita for dinner would require an expensive taxi ride home or an overnight stay at a hotel plus finding doggie-daycare for Bella. We need to be closer to the big city, it seems.
9.  The downtown is not very attractive. Power lines have not been put underground downtown as is the recent trend in tourist towns, so the wires crisscrossing every which way on every street adds to the cluttered, messy look in centro.
10. The two estuaries from the small rivers that flow to the ocean smelled and looked like sewer whenever we crossed them on the footbridges, headed to downtown.

     As much as we enjoyed staying at the RV Parks in La Peñita de Jaltemba when we were living in our motorhome, our “Pros and Cons” list made it clear to us that this would not be where we would choose to retire. Many folks from north of the Mexican border do decide to settle in this town and enjoy it. It just isn’t our first choice. La Peñita is changing for the better though, and each year it becomes more attractive.

     To read my blog articles about RV Parks in La Peñita, see: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.mx/2015/02/la-penita-de-jaltemba-three-rv-parks-in.html . My blog article from our trip the year before can be viewed at:  http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.mx/2014/08/la-penita-de-jaltemba-nayarit-lovely.html . For more information on La Peñita, see http://explorenayarit.com/towns/la-penita/ . 


SAN FRANCISCO (SAN PANCHO), NAYARIT

Just a Few of Our Happy San Pancho Memories

     San Francisco, Nayarit, nicknamed San Pancho by the locals, is one of our favorite towns in Mexico. After living there in a rented condo for three months one winter, we thought seriously about retiring in San Pancho. Each time we arrive in San Pancho, the taxi driver says, “Ah, tranquillo”. A sense of calm emanates from the community, and we feel tranquility begin to grow within ourselves as we enter San Pancho. When we reach the beach and settle into a chair with a glass of cold lemonade, the rhythmic sound of the gentle waves complete the sensation of “we’re in paradise”. Jon and I look at each other, smiling, and we both say "ahhhh" at the same time.
     We have spent more time in San Pancho than in any other town or city in Mexico. We have gotten to know it well and have made friends there. Maybe that is part of why we return again and again, picturing ourselves purchasing a home in this little pueblo and living there for the rest of our lives. For additional information on San Pancho, see SanPanchoLife.com

Getting to San Pancho
San Pancho is 16 Miles South of La Penita

     The Licenciado Gustavo Diaz Ordaz International airport in Puerto Vallarta (PVR), Jalisco is 26 miles and generally 45 minutes to an hour by taxi from San Pancho, depending on traffic. The bus from the airport and Puerto Vallarta runs to San Pancho about once each hour.
    San Pancho is about 16 miles south of La Peñita de Jaltemba, which makes it quite a bit closer to Puerto Vallarta. This may not seem significant until you have driven that 16 mile stretch of curvy, 2-lane highway, following a heavily loaded semi that is going uphill at 20 miles per hour with 25 cars and buses backed up behind it. A 45 minute taxi ride can turn into an hour and a half, and that is if there is not an auto accident ahead of you on the highway to deal with. Being 16 miles closes to the airport and Puerto Vallarta could turn out to swing our decision in favor of San Pancho for our retirement home. But, first, let me list our feelings about all of the factors we are weighing, the "Pros and Cons" of moving to San Pancho.
Many Good Memories of San Pancho, A Clean, Attractive Town
Here are the things we like about San Pancho
1.   As the locals say, San Pancho is muy tranquilo, very peaceful and calm.
2.  The town is very small. It is easy to walk anywhere in town that we want to go. We wouldn’t need a car. A golf cart to shuttle groceries and laundry home would be sufficient. We could easily reach our goal of walking 10,000 steps daily if we walked to the beach, to shop at the mini-super market, to check out the local happenings in town, and then to dinner. One of our main criteria is to live in a town or city where we can walk almost everywhere we need to go. That’s “Healthy Living in Mexico”!
3.  San Pancho is a clean, well maintained town. The electrical wires have been put underground in the downtown area, adding to the clean feel. The main street is paved and most of the other streets are cobblestone. The residents keep the streets swept, minimizing dust and debris. 
4.     The beach is beautiful and clean. It is very enjoyable to walk along, usually quiet and uncrowded. We looked forward to sitting at one of the palapa restaurants on the beach, enjoying a lunch of chicken quesadillas that are oozing melted cheese and topped with guacamole and spicy salsa. Sipping a cold, refreshing drink while we listen to the waves break and watch the pelicans soar over the water....a perfect afternoon.
5.  The weather in San Pancho is similar to that in La Peñita, semi-tropical and more humid than Mazatlán and San Carlos on the northern coast. We found the days to be pleasantly warm and sunny.
6.  The locals are very laid back and friendly.
7.  There are some very good restaurants in town. Our favorites when we are splurging are La Ola Rica, Maria’s, and Cielo Rojo. Baja Takeria has the best fish tacos and margaritas in town, in our opinion.
8.  There is a significant gringo population in San Pancho and we found it easy to make friends in this community. 
9.   San Pancho is a family-friendly town. 
10.  We have always felt safe in this town, even walking home from dinner or an event after dark.
11.  The town and beach are dog-friendly. Bella enjoys a good run down the south end of the beach, chasing sand crabs and sea birds.
12.  Groceries at the few Mini-Super markets are inexpensive and well stocked with basic supplies and produce. The nearest supermarket is Mega, 16 miles and 45 minutes south by bus. (This is an important factor for us since we have chosen to sell all of our cars and use buses or taxis.) We decided that it is cheaper and more relaxing to let the bus driver take us there while we watch the jungle scene through the window, and then observe the activity increase as small businesses begin to emerge followed by the bigger cities of Bucerías and Puerto Vallarta to the south. 
13.  There was one small pharmacy in San Pancho the last time we were there and the information on San Pancho Life.com states that there is still one. See http://www.sanpancholife.com/san-pancho-information.htm
14.  There was one Zumba class in town when we stayed in San Pancho, free to participants. It was so much fun and a good place to meet people! That is where I became hooked on Zumba! See my blog article for more information by clicking: HERE
15.  Sayulita, the town five miles south of San Pancho, is a taxi ride away and has many good restaurants, live music, and a nice, clean beach. Numerous palapa restaurants provide lounge chairs and umbrellas, perfect for an afternoon of relaxation, lunch of fresh fish “al gusto” (as you like it), margaritas on the rocks, and playing in the water (before the margaritas). We have had many fun days of boogie-boarding and Stand Up Paddleboarding in Sayulita.
16.  Health care is available in town, with a small hospital, San Pancho Hospital General. It is unclear whether there are doctors or dentists in town regularly, or only “on call” for the hospital. Larger medical centers are in Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara.
17.  The Puerto Vallarta Romantic Zone is 30 miles south if we want to go for dinner and a show or need to shop at Home Depot, Mega, Wal-Mart, Office Depot, or other department stores. The disadvantage is that it takes us at least an hour and 15 minutes from San Pancho to Puerto Vallarta by bus and usually longer including waiting time since the bus only stops in San Pancho once each hour.
18.  There are two golf courses to choose from! Las Huertas Golf Club is right in San Pancho, a beautiful garden setting. This is the more challenging course of the two in the area. Campo de Ensuenos (Field of Dreams) Golf Course is just 10 miles north on Hwy 200. It is public and inexpensive! It even has a clubhouse now, serving lunch and drinks.
19.  The Turtle Project to save the turtle eggs and release the baby turtles has been in operation in San Pancho for many years and has released over one million baby turtles! It is so much fun to watch the baby turtles scrambling over the sand at sunset, finally catching a wave and heading to sea. It was also educational when we volunteered to help at the turtle nursery.
20.  Bird watching is very good in this area, especially around the lagoon where the river empties into the ocean. We also enjoyed iguana watching each morning when we stayed at Maria’s Condominium. From the balcony, we could see the iguanas in a large nearby tree come to life as the sun warmed their colorful bodies and they began battles for their territory of the day. Simple entertainment, relaxing and humorous, a healthy way to start our day!
21.  The Plaza is pretty and well maintained. The stage backdrop is a work of art, with a vividly painted mural, changing each year. Music festivals, a weekly market, Zumba and yoga classes, birthday parties, and many other activities are held in this pretty park. The basketball/soccer court is used often, a real asset for San Pancho.
22.  EntreAmigos Community Center: An amazing place in San Pancho, it must be toured to appreciate everything it provides for both children and adults. We would use this facility for classes such as “Bird Watching with Luis”, the new pickle ball court, tours to the orchid gardens, recycling, and so much more. To learn more, go to http://entreamigos.org.com
23. Circo de Los Niños is a school founded by the well-known Gilles St. Croix and Monique Voyer to teach children ballet and circus skills requiring strength, power, resistance, agility and balance. Each year they put on an outstanding show, performed by the youth of the circus class.
24.  Theater, Art Shows, and Comedy Shows are fun activities during high season (November to April).
25.  La Patrona Polo Club is a fun place to watch polo matches. We look forward to the time when their new facility is completed. Hopefully the new restaurant will be as good as the one at their original facility!
26.  San Pancho Spanish School: I promised myself that I would begin taking Spanish classes once we moved to Mexico and became expats. This Spanish school has a very good reputation.
27.  Gardening in this area would be enjoyable for me, with the colorful tropical plants, ferns, banana and papaya trees, and many flowers that grow here. That is one hobby I have missed while we were living in our motorhome. I look forward to planting my first Bird of Paradise.
28.  For a city map and additional information on San Pancho, see http://sanpancholife.com/

     After compiling our list of “Pros” for moving to San Pancho, I realize how much Jon and I really love San Pancho. We have envisioned living in this pueblo for years. Would our list of the “Pros” outweigh the “Cons” for retiring in San Pancho? Read more below. To view some of our photos of San Pancho, see my blog article at: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.mx/2014/08/san-francisco-san-pancho-nayarit.html

Here are the Reasons We Hesitate About Choosing San Pancho as our Retirement Home:
1.      The downtown (centro) is too small, really just a short strip of restaurants, stores, and souvenir shops along the main road into town, Avenida Tercer Mundo. We would need to travel to nearby towns for basic services such as haircuts, doctors and dentists offices, a Veterinarian, hardware stores, etc.
2.  The waves in the San Pancho bay were usually not good enough for us, as beginners, to go boogie-boarding, swimming, or surfing when we were there. There are times when the waves are great for experienced surfers, but most of the time the surf was too strong for us. The neighboring town of Sayulita is very good for these water activities, especially for beginners, but would require that we take a taxi ride five miles each way (120 peso one way, about $7 US).
3.  The cost of housing is relatively high for a coastal town in the state of Nayarit.
4. The number of restaurants in San Pancho is limited since it is such a small town. If you’ve read many of my articles or books about our travels, you know that having plenty of good restaurants nearby is an important criterion for our choice of a place to live. We look forward to going out for dinner three or four times each week. If we lived in San Pancho, we would need to travel often to Sayulita, Puerto Vallarta, or other towns in the Riviera Nayarit to have enough variety in restaurants. Our limited retirement budget allows for dining out four times each week, but not traveling by taxi that often. Even if we owned a car, we wouldn’t drive to dinner because we would want to enjoy wine with our dinner. Our hard and fast rule: we don’t drink and drive!
5.  There are no banks in San Pancho. The closest banks are in Bucerias, 15 miles south. There are ATMs in the two mini-super markets that are considered secure, but we prefer to take a bus ride to the bank once a month to withdraw pesos from their secure ATM.
6.  There was only one Veterinarian in town that we could find and it was always closed when we walked by. Our friends who live in San Pancho take their dog to a Vet in Sayulita. This is important for us, since we only want the best dog food and care for our long-haired dachshund, Bella.
7. Taxis are few and sometimes a little hard to find in San Pancho. We either had to walk up to the hospital where the main taxi stand is, or call one of the local taxi drivers to see if he was available and wait for him to come pick us up. Since we don’t own a car, this is a factor for us to consider.
8.  The bus stops in San Pancho, going north or south, only about once each hour. Also, it doesn’t come into town making it was necessary to walk to Hwy 200 to catch it, a long hike from the beach and plaza area. We could solve this by owning a golf cart and driving it up to the bus stop.
9.  The only church in town is catholic, as far as we know, with Spanish and Latin the spoken languages. The closest church where English is spoken is in Sayulita, 5 miles south.

           Up to this point, we have evaluated four cities and towns for our choice of a place to retire on our limited funds: San Carlos, Sonora, Mazatlán, Sinoloa, La Peñita de Jaltemba, Nayarit, and San Francisco (San Pancho), Nayarit. We had a tough time ruling three of these out, especially because we really love San Pancho. But, of these four, we finally decided Mazatlán would be our preferred city to live in, probably because it was big enough to have so much more to offer for activities and restaurants, and we could easily walk or bus to everything.
     We still had four more of our favorite cities to evaluate. Would one of those four beat out Mazatlán in our tough decision about the place we would make our home during our retirement? It was time to start evaluating Jocotepec, Jalisco and San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
Parasailing at Sunset in Mazatlan
     To read our "Pros and Cons" list for retiring in Mazatlán, click: http://retirementbeforetheageof59.blogspot.mx/2016/04/narrowing-our-search-for-retirement.html

I invite you to read my book, Retirement Before the Age of 59: Healthy Living in Mexico #2, available worldwide, to learn about our other favorite places in Mexico and where we decided to retire. Thank you for reading my articles and books.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

NARROWING OUR SEARCH FOR A RETIREMENT HOME: Mazatlan? San Carlos?

How Did We Decide When We Enjoy So Many Places?
Searching for our Retirement Home in Mexico
     Jon and I decided to retire early, before I reached the age of 59, too soon for me to start collecting Social Security or begin withdrawing from my Retirement Account without penalty. That meant we had to live very inexpensively. We knew that Mexico would be the cheapest place for us to live during retirement.
    We made one big decision about our retirement during the past year while we lived full-time in our motorhome: We were ready to choose our favorite city in Mexico and settle down. We were tired of driving the motorhome long distances around Mexico. In addition, the cost of gasoline and the wear and tear on the motorhome were cutting into our funds. We needed to narrow our search for our retirement home and choose one, but we had so many favorites in Mexico. Where would we begin? 
    Jon and I listed our top eight choices for our future home and started discussing the pros and cons of each. We decided to start evaluating the first two cities that we always stop at as we leave Tucson, Arizona and head south along the west side of mainland Mexico: San Carlos and Mazatlán. As we talked about our good memories of each of these towns, we decided to list the “Pros and Cons” of each and we knew that our decision would come clear.
San Carlos, Sonora
Totonaka RV Park Cactus Garden in San Carlos

     San Carlos is a resort town on the Sea of Cortez, about 265 miles south of Nogales, Arizona. When we drove into Mexico in our motorhome, this was always our first stop, with Totonaka RV Park our destination. Often when we arrived in November, the weather was too cool for us, rarely reaching 70 degrees. When we reached San Carlos just before Christmas in 2014, the weather was perfect! On Christmas day, the sky was blue, the temperature was 75 ° F and the breeze was light. It was my kind of winter day! In November 2015, though the sky was clear blue and sunny, we couldn’t get warm enough, especially when we were sitting on the beach at one of our favorite hangouts, the Soggy Peso Bar. We enjoyed watching the kite-surfers, but the wind coming off the sea was cold. The water was even colder and the surfers had to wear wetsuits to stay warm enough. We had no desire to swim in the water on either side of San Carlos. The small resort town of San Carlos, in the state of Sonora, was always a peaceful, beautiful place to spend our first week in Mexico, but we started to think it was not warm enough for us to choose to retire there.
     When we stayed at Totonaka RV Park, it is within walking distance of restaurants, the beach, the bank, and the grocery store. That’s a real plus for us because we no longer have a car and like to be able to walk or ride a bus to most places. On our first day in town we would usually take Bella, our miniature dachshund, for a walk on the pretty beach across the street from the RV Park. Bella chased seagulls while we picked up bright green rocks and seashells. A good first day at the beach!
     To read more, click this link:  http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2014/12/christmas-at-totonaka-rv-park-in-san.html


Bicycling to the Fitness Center to Work Out and Then to Do Our Shopping--That was Enough Exercise for One Day!
Athletic Club San Carlos

     Zumba class at the Athletic Club San Carlos starts at 9:30 in the morning--that's my favorite time of day for Zumba! The day after Christmas in 2014, Jon and I decided to ride our bikes the short distance from Totonaka RV Park to this fitness center—my odometer clocked it at less than half a mile. We were impressed that the club even had a bike rack out front, and we weren't the only ones using it! We liked this town and this club immediately.
     Jon worked out in the well-equipped gym while I attended Zumba with Sandy. To read more, click this link: 
 http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/01/athletic-club-of-san-carlos-pollo.html

Some Good Restaurants in San Carlos
View from Ruby Wine Bar--Marina & Mt Tetakawi

     The number of restaurants in town is an important criterion for us. We enjoy going out for meals several times each week, and we want more than taco stands to choose from. The low cost of living in Mexico allows us to budget for going out for dinner three or four times per week and out for lunch two or three times a week. I know, I’m spoiled, but that’s the way I like it. So, when Jon and I evaluated the list of our favorite restaurants here, there really were not enough for us. Here are our favorites:
·         Ruby Wine Bar: We really enjoyed the pizza and fresh salads at this cute bistro overlooking the marina and Tetakawi Mountain. The wine selection was excellent for Mexico. When we were there last, it was closed. I hope it was a temporary closure due to low season.
·         Delfines Bar and Grill: This was our first time at Delfines and we thoroughly enjoyed the food and the ambiance. The menu is upscale and diverse. It features a full bar and a good wine selection. Several televisions were showing the American Football game during dinner, so Jon was happy about that. 
·         Los Arbilitos: Next to the Totonaka RV Park, this was good place for dinner when we wanted to walk to somewhere close. Seafood and margaritas or beer are the choices. Popular with the Mexicans during their holidays.
·         La Palapa: A good place to settle for a beer or margarita and light food with your feet in the sand, overlooking the bay, listening to live music, usually Mexican-style rock-‘n’-roll.
·         Rosticeria Pollo Lopez: Great rotisserie chicken and baked potatoes
·         Tortugas Off the Edge: A good place for lunch with outdoor seating. Tacos and other traditional Mexican food.
·         Soggy Peso Bar: Great crab salad, when they have it. Shrimp quesadillas are consistently good. We have to drink margaritas here, they are so good. This place is a taxi ride away from the Totonaka RV Park, but worth the 150 peso (about $9.00 U.S.) each way.
           There are not currently any commercial flights into San Carlos. So, the only ways to get to this town are by road or by sea. If Jon and I decided to buy a brick and mortar home in San Carlos, we would have to buy a car to drive back to Oregon to spend time with our family. We decided we want to be able to fly back and forth, so this was a negative strike against San Carlos.
     The first time we stayed in San Carlos, we liked it enough to look at real estate for sale. But the more we visited San Carlos, the more sure we were that this town was not going to be our retirement home. As much as we enjoyed spending a few days there when we drove our motorhome south, we couldn’t envision buying property and settling there. There are several nice communities of friendly gringos within San Carlos. Many Americans and Canadians, especially from British Columbia, find San Carlos warm enough and have no desire to look further south. For us, the “Cons” outweighed the “Pros” and we struck it from our list of choices for a retirement home. We were down to seven cities to evaluate.
The Drive from Nogales, AZ to San Carlos

Mazatlán, Sinoloa
Mazatlán Beach Looking South from Mar Rosa RV Park
     We love Mazatlán! We could definitely envision living there for nine to ten months of each year. Is this the city we will ultimately choose as our retirement home?
     Jon and I usually go to Mazatlán once each year and often twice. Each time we visit, we fall in love with this city. But this was not always the case. The first time we were there I disliked our experience so much that I told Jon, “I never want to go back to that place again”. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that we were only there for one afternoon as a port stop on a Mexican cruise. Cruises really don’t give a fair exposure to cities. That’s part of why we no longer take cruises.
     We found that when we stayed in Mazatlán for at least two weeks in a stretch, we had time to get our fill of relaxing on the beach and people watching and then strike out to explore the real city. That’s when we found out how beautiful the Historic District is, how exceptional the Malecón (the promenade along the ocean) is, how many good restaurants there are, and how much music and entertainment there is to choose from. The Pacific Ocean off Mazatlán is generally warm and mellow enough that we could boogie-board there, but not smooth enough to do Stand Up Paddleboard. The opportunities for exercise are very good. The city has an exceptionally good bus system. Health care is good and inexpensive. We felt safe walking, even at night, in the Golden Zone and usually walked to and from restaurants in that area for dinner. Shopping for groceries and supplies is convenient, whether in the downtown market, neighborhood tiendas, or supermarkets such as Wal-Mart or Mega.
     The classic beauty of the Historic District's colonial architecture was what drew us to wander the streets of Mazatlán Old Town year after year, admiring the buildings that were being restored. In 2015, we began to envision making this city our retirement home. We spent a day with a realtor looking at a condo and some houses in the Historic District. Mazatlán was definitely going to be high on our list of choices for the city we would retire in. It was time for us to review our memories of this city and compile our list of “Pros and Cons”. Jon and I have spent more time in Mazatlán than any other city in Mexico, so we have many good memories to evaluate.
Plaza Machado in Mazatlan's Historic District
Mazatlán Historic District and Central Market
     When we are in the United States visiting family during the summer, we miss Mazatlán, its beautiful bay and beaches, many good restaurants, and the pretty colonial buildings in the Historic District. I begin looking through my photos of Mazatlán, showing my favorites to my husband, Jon. We reminisce about our happy times there, exploring all the niches in old town, many of which are being restored with new plaster and bright paint. One of our favorite blocks of pretty houses in Mazatlán's Historic District is Angel Flores between Calle Niños Heroes and Venus. We catch the bus to the Golden Zone on this street, so we often stand on this corner admiring the Mexican colonial architecture.
     One typically warm, sunny afternoon we had lunch at the cozy restaurant named "Raizc3s" in this beautifully restored building on the corner of Constitución and Belisario Dominquez streets in Old Town. Our table centered on the arch-topped open window so we had a nice view for people watching as we dined. To read more and see more photos of the Historic District, click: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/06/mazatlan-historic-district-central.html

Culinary Market in Old Town Mazatlán
      A trip to the Culinary Market in Mazatlán was a real treat. Our intended destination was the newly opened Hector's Bistro for lunch in the Historic District. We were having trouble finding Hector's and didn't even realize we had walked by it twice. There are no bold signs shouting that we had arrived at the jewel in this neighborhood. Luckily, as we circled the block, we saw the subtle but attractive sign on the window of the bakery inside: Mercado Culinario (Culinary Market). We discovered that there is much more hidden inside this restored colonial building than Hector's Bistro. We found that we had to duck into one of the doorways and poke around the interior to discover the colorful, organized merchant stands offering a wide variety of specialty foods. To read my blog article about the Culinary Market, click here: Culinary Market in Mazatlan: Hectors Bistro...

Culinary Market, Hector's Bistro, La Krema, & More
     
This fun day of shopping and lunch in the Historic District of Mazatlán definitely qualified as "Healthy Living in Mexico". Our many good memories of time spent in Old Town Mazatlán put a big check-mark in the “Pros” column of our “Pros and Cons” list for retiring in this city.

Plenty of Good Restaurants in Mazatlán, in the Golden Zone, the Historic District, in Cerritos, and the Marina Area
     Dining opportunities is one of our top priorities when we choose a city to visit or live in. Anyone can choose a restaurant from the TripAdvisor list when on vacation and probably be satisfied. But, after we have spent so much time in Mazatlán, our restaurant list is refined to those we return to repeatedly, our favorites.
·         Villa Italia Restaurante Italiano: Located at: Ave Camarón Sábalo, Mazatlán, across from El Cid. This is an easy half mile walk from Mar Rosa RV Park. The walk home is enough to wear off (almost) the flan that we can’t resist after a delicious dinner of pizza, salad, and wine.
·         Pancho’s: There are two Pancho’s now, but we still go to the original which is in the southern section of the Golden Zone and overlooks the ocean. A very popular restaurant, for both the food and the ambiance, we often have to wait in line for a table during high season.
·         La Mona Pizza: In the heart of old town, this one is worth the visit just for the experience of seeing the neighborhood and for the quirky interior. La Mona's pizza is our favorite in Mazatlán, the wine selection is good, and the servers are exceptionally friendly and prompt.
·         El Alhibe de San Pedro: In the outskirts of the Historic District, El Alhibe is one of a kind. Built inside of a very old, abandoned water reservoir, the walls curve into the rounded ceiling and are covered with old bits of nostalgic scrap items, toys, and art. The food is unique and a bit pricey so we save this restaurant for our special occasions.
·         Fat Fish: Good ribs for a great price. In the Golden Zone
·         FISH (Fresh International Seafood House): This is a real find! In the Golden Zone, this has become our favorite place to go for Camarones Empanizado (breaded, deep-fried prawns), delicious french fries, along with a house salad and a good glass of wine, all for a very reasonable price. 
·         El Shrimp Bucket: In the Historic District, overlooking the Malecón and Pacific Ocean. A good place to watch people and the sunset.
·         Pedro y Lola’s: This classy restaurant is well-known by tourists and expats alike, so it is usually very busy on weekend nights. The food is very good but high priced. The location can’t be beat, on the corner of the Plaza Machado. We pay the price and enjoy the food when Lori Davidson and Rob Lamonica are playing there. Enjoying her voice and his keyboard playing justifies the money we spend there.
·         Mr. Lionso Playa Brujo: Located at the end of Cerritos, this very Mexican restaurant overlooks the ocean. The food, typical Mexican fare, is inexpensive and delicious. We enjoy their shrimp cocktail, Mexican-style, of course, spicy and fresh.
·         Chili’s Pepper: While the food is nothing to brag about, the location is great and margaritas are fine. This is one of the few restaurants in the Golden Zone where we can sit with our feet in the sand and listen to the soothing rhythm of the waves, lapping the sand just yards away.
·         Chill 'N' Grill: This is just one of the restaurants we enjoyed in the marina area south of Cerritos. The views are nice and it was less crowded with tourists than the Golden Zone when we were there. 
Jon and Terry at Chill 'N' Grill   
     We found that in Mazatlán there was plenty of variety in restaurants to keep us happy. Besides typical Mexican food, there are an abundance of seafood restaurants and steakhouses. We found several places with good pizza and Italian food, even a couple of Asian restaurants that were satisfactory. But, where is the barbecue chicken (pollo asado)? After weeks of eating pizza and seafood, I was hungry for roasted chicken and talked Jon into taking a walk down the Malecón, sure that we would find some. We walked for miles, scanning menus and signs at palapa restaurants, taco stands, and finer eateries. We found fish tacos, Red Snapper Zarandeado, mahi-mahi any style you want, shrimp as you like it, ceviche, octopus, oysters, and other seafood I had no desire to sample.
     I was getting very tired, hungry, hot, and grumpy. I finally said, “Let’s hire a taxi to take us to a good chicken restaurant. I’m paying, so no arguing!” Jon knows to just say “okay” when I get to that stage. I flagged a Pulmonia, an open-air taxi unique to Mazatlán and made my request. I didn’t even ask the taxi drive “How much?” before climbing in, a definite no-no in Mexico. At that point, I didn’t care what it cost; I wanted barbecue chicken, Mexican-style, now. Naturally, the driver took us on a circuitous route, what seemed like a long distance across town, through neighborhoods we had never seen before, and finally stopped just off a main highway at a busy, open-air restaurant with real wood smoke rising from the chimneys. The aroma of spicy, salty, roasting poultry was so wonderful, I gladly paid the rather high taxi fee of about $12 U.S. and we hurried in to order. The juicy, smoky flavor of our first Mazatlán chicken dinner made the whole journey worth it. Why didn’t we think to grab a taxi sooner? I don’t think we could ever find that chicken stand again; we’ll just grab a Pulmonia and go on another adventure the next time I crave pollo asado in Mazatlán.
     Yes, the variety of good restaurants in Mazatlán would keep us happy if we retired there. Pros Column for Retirement in Mazatlán: Many Good Restaurants!


Music and Entertainment Abound in Mazatlán
  • Macaws: The "Cheers" of Mazatlán: After a long walk to Wal-Mart, we decided we had earned an evening out for dinner and listening to live music--we were too tired to cook after that adventure. So we caught the bus in front of the Mar Rosa RV Park and for 10 pesos (about 70 cents U.S.) each, we rode in air-conditioned comfort to the Historic District of Mazatlán. We walked the 6 or 7 blocks to Macaws to listen to the group "Wingin' It" with Lori Davidson, Rob Lamonica, Chris Henderson, and Ron Fantz. Macaws has been nicknamed the "Cheers" of Mazatlán, and I could see why when we sat down at a table in this cozy neighborhood open-air restaurant bar. To read more of this blog article, click: Macaws: The "Cheers" of Mazatlan
  • Brensters Beach Bash at Diego's: Brenster's Beach Bash was voted one of Mazatlán's "Favorite Things to Do"! It happens at Deigo's from 2:00 to 6:00 every Tuesday, November to April. Brent McAthey, the "Brenster", a Canadian Country Music singer-songwriter, is a star in Mazatlán. We were especially glad that we were at the Beach Bash the week that the Brenster performed with Tanya Carrum, a talented Mexican singer who also performs at La Catrina's every Wednesday during high season. Another treat that week...the Brenster sang with his special guests, Patricia Conroy, Michelle Wright, and Beverley Mahood who are typically slated to perform at the Brenster and Carrum Show once each season. The crowd was on their feet dancing, singing along, and just having fun in the sun! To see more, click my blog article: Brenster's Beach Bash & Zumba with Penny
  • La Catrina's Restaurant and Cantina:  Tanya Carrum, a talented Mexican singer, performs here once a week during high season, usually on Wednesday evenings. Her show is a real treat while dining at La Catrina. Dick Damron, a Canadian Country Western Musician, also plays here at times. The largely Canadian crowd is fun-loving, dancing and singing along.
  • Pedro y Lola's: The music selection varies here from night to night here. Lori Davidson and her band can often be found here on Saturday nights. 
  • Angela Peralta Mazatlán Theater: The restored theater is a cultural treasure for Mazatlán, hosting dance, concerts and other shows.

Brenster's Beach Bash--A Lively Beach Party

     The variety of live music and other entertainment available in Mazatlán is enough to make us happy if we retired there. Another check-mark in the “Pros” column for "Retiring in Mazatlán"!

Mazatlán Malecón: Rollerblading, Bicycling, Walking, and So Much More
     The Mazatlán Malecón, a wide, concrete walkway along the beach, is one of the longest Malecóns in the world! Some claim that it is the longest in the world. This promenade is nearly thirteen miles long (twenty-one kilometers) and wide enough for plenty of traffic including bicycles, pedestrians, skateboarders, strollers, dogs, and people on rollerblades.  Everyone is tolerant of beginner rollerbladers like us who are wobbling along, looking for the next handrail to grab onto. We don't look smooth and polished like most skaters who buzz past us, but we have fun and get a good workout. This is "Healthy Living in Mexico!"
     The Malecón is a significant gathering place in Mazatlán, used for social time as well as physical fitness. Many go there simply to take a stroll along the ocean, sight-seeing and people watching. Couples and families come to spend time together there, both during the daytime and in the evening when it is well lit. Along the Malecón, there are cliffs, monuments, gazebos, colonial buildings, hotels, shops, restaurants, bars, many beautiful sculptures, street vendors, and plenty of new benches for resting and watching people. To read more, click this link:  http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/05/mazatlan-malecon-rollerblading.html
We Enjoyed Rollerblading on the Mazatlan Malecon!
Shopping for Groceries and Supplies in Mazatlán
     Shopping options are plentiful in Mazatlán. In addition to the central market and Culinary Market, there is an Organic Market on Saturdays for fresh produce. Many pharmacy chains are located in this city, including Guadalajara Pharmacy and Wal-Mart. Groceries chains include Mega, Soriana, Leys, Wal-Mart, Sam’s Club, and others. Our favorite meat supplier is Henderson’s Meat Market. There are small mini-supper markets, usually one on each block in the Golden Zone, making it easy to pick up a few fruits, vegetables, and supplies when needed. Here are a couple of stories about shopping at some of our favorite stores in Mazatlán:
·         Guadalajara Pharmacy: Fear of illness or injury while living or traveling in Mexico is a real concern for many people. It may ease the minds of travelers to know that pharmacies, Urgent Care Clinics, and hospitals are readily available in tourist areas of Mexico. Here is one story of treating a health issue while in Mazatlán that I hope will help others realize that medical care is easily accessible in most areas of Mexico (at least the cities where gringos live):
     My husband, Jon, awoke one morning with a stye on his lower eyelid, a small, red, painful bump with a whitehead. To read more, click this link:  http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.mx/2015/01/hendersons-meat-market-in-mazatlan.html
·         Henderson’s Meat Market and the Produce Truck: Chuck roast from Henderson's Carnicería (meat market) was the starting point for Jon’s favorite comfort food—Crock-pot Pot Roast. We discovered Henderson’s Carnicería (meat market) in Mazatlán recently. Their beef is aged which improves the flavor and increases the tenderness. We decided to purchase a chuck roast rather than a rump roast for this pot roast hoping for a juicier, tender finished dish. We couldn't find a chuck roast in the freezer section so we asked if they had it (pointing to the helpful chart on the wall). The butcher pulled a large roast out of the front cooler and cut off the 1.5 kg piece that we needed. Fresh, not frozen...even better. To read more, click this link:   http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/01/hendersons-meat-market-in-mazatlan.html
Jon Shopping at the Produce Truck at Mar Rosa RV Park in Mazatlan

A Typical Day of Living in Mazatlán Provides Plenty of Exercise Opportunities

     During the first week after Jon and I arrived in Mazatlán last year, we were lazy and our only exercise was walking to dinner, strolling on the beach with Bella, or walking to the bank and to buy groceries. But, staying physically fit is one of our highest priorities during our early retirement. So, the next Monday morning we started with a lively hour of Zumba Gold with Penny Fuller. She teaches classes in the park at the corner of Atún and Mojarra Streets in Mazatlán's Golden Zone. Zumba Gold class starts at 8:30 AM on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday during the high season. It felt so good to get back to Zumba Gold class! Our motto is "Attend Zumba Classes, Eat More Flan!" (Zumba burns enough calories so we can eat flan for dessert once or twice a week!)
     We found out that if we could drag ourselves out of bed in time, we could attend Penny's Zumba Toning class that starts at 7:50 AM, right before Zumba Gold. Penny's arms, shoulders, and back are very muscular, demonstrating the benefits of Zumba Toning. She is in remarkably good health. Teaching two classes a day at the age of 72, she is a testament to the physical and mental health benefits of Zumba. To read more, click this link: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/01/zumba-with-penny-in-morning-dancing-and.html
Zumba Class in Mazatlán Taught by Penny Fuller 

     
Zumba Toning Class: An Invigorating Way to Start the Morning in Mexico
     When Penny Fuller told me that her Zumba Toning class started at 7:50 in the morning, I said, "That's awfully early! I'm not really a morning person..." and then I heard myself whining. (Excuse Number 31 not to go to Zumba class)
     After I attended Penny's Zumba Toning class, I realized that this was a very invigorating way to start the day. The walk to the park in the cool morning air was refreshing. When I arrived at the basketball court where class is held, I was surprised at how many people, mostly gringos, had gathered this early in the morning in the shade of the park's trees to tone their muscles. To read more, click this link: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/02/zumba-toning-class-with-penny-fuller-in.html
     Penny Fuller teaches Zumba Toning and Zumba Gold in the park at the corner of Atún and Mojarra Streets in Mazatlán's Golden Zone. Zumba Toning begins at 7:50 AM on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday during the high season. Zumba Gold classes start at 8:30 AM following Zumba Toning. To verify class schedules or to contact Penny, go to http://pennyfuller.zumba.com .
An Hour & 40 Minutes of Zumba, Then She's Going to Play Golf!
BeFiT Fitness Centers
     There are so many ways to stay physically fit in Mazatlán. When our usual Zumba class with Penny was finished for the season and we weren't ready to leave Mazatlán, I started searching for another way to work out. One day, as we were riding the bus from the Golden Zone toward Punta Cerritos RV Park, I saw a large banner hanging above a building at the curve where Avenida Camarón Sábalo turns into the Marina area. It was advertising “BeFit Fitness Centers” with a large photo of an attractive Mexican woman in sexy workout clothing. That should bring the men to this fitness center!
    When I googled BeFiT in Mazatlán, I found out there are three of these fitness centers in this city. To read more, click this link: http://healthylivingandtravelinginmexico.blogspot.com/2015/06/befit-fitness-centers-in-mazatlan-zumba.html
     To see all three BeFiT Fitness Center locations in Mazatlán and to contact them for current class schedules, go to their website at www.befit.mx .
Jon Working Out at the BeFit Fitness Center in Mazatlan
Retire in a Community of Palapa-RV Homes?
     Punta Cerritos RV Park, located on a point in northern Mazatlán overlooking the ocean, is a unique retirement village. This community began as an RV Park and has been transformed into individual homes by the retirees and snowbirds that live there. Of the 79 sites, only six are were still available for yearly leases when we stayed for a week in May. The other 73 sites are occupied by outdoor living homes, each one with a fifth-wheel, motorhome, or other type of recreational vehicle nestled inside of unique structures with palapa roofs over them for shade and protection from the weather. The "owner" of each RV has customized his or her home with addition of outdoor kitchens, sitting areas for socializing or relaxing, tile flooring, light fixtures, brick walls, flowerbeds and cactus gardens, Mexican garden art, bodegas, and more. It is obvious that the owners take pride in their RV homes by the improvements and decor they have added.
     We were fortunate to be able to stay in a front row site nearest the ocean so we had the sea breeze to cool us as the May temperatures crept into the upper 80's. We considered "purchasing" one of these sites and retiring at Punta Cerritos. To read more about this retirement community, click this link: http://retirementbeforetheageof59.blogspot.com/2015/05/mazatlan-retirement-living-punta.html  
Ocean View from Punta Cerritos RV Park
Weather in Mazatlán
     The weather in Mazatlán is less humid than in the more southern coastal towns we’ve visited. Ten months of the year are considered dry months and have very little rain. The hot, rainy months are usually August and September. We enjoy the clear blue skies and the gentle breeze most of the year. Our only hesitation about retiring in Mazatlán is that the cool winter months of November, December, and January are too cool for us. Sometimes it doesn’t warm up enough for us until March or April. Most expats who retire in Mazatlán feel the weather is perfect, except for the two rainy months. We have found that the more time we spend in Mexico, the more we have adjusted to the warmth and prefer daytime temperatures to be above 75 degrees most of the year. Mazatlán’s cooler weather may be the biggest drawback for us, though many would disagree.

Getting to Mazatlán
    We have driven our motorhome to Mazatlán for years and find that it takes us three days from the United States border, including time needed for the border crossing procedures. Now that we are retired, we want to be able to fly to our home in Mexico. Preferably, the city we choose to retire in will have an airport nearby. Mazatlán qualifies, having a modern, international airport just south of the city. A short four and one-half hour flight from Medford, Oregon would be a real bonus if we chose Mazatlán for our retirement home.
Driving Route to Mazatlan from the U.S. Border: 781 Miles
Would We Choose San Carlos or Mazatlán?
    After visiting San Carlos and Mazatlán many times in the past fifteen years, we have gotten to know both very well. We have spent a significant amount of time in each at various times of the year so we could experience the changes in weather and activities between seasons. Of these two cities, Mazatlán would definitely be our first choice. In our evaluation of this beautiful place, the “Pros” for Mazatlán greatly outweighed the “Cons”. We have eliminated San Carlos, but we still have six more cities to appraise. Where will we finally settle in our retirement?
Healthy Living and Traveling in Mexico, the Book
     To read more about cities in Mexico that we have traveled to in our search for a retirement home, take a look at my ebook, available on Amazon.com by clicking this link: "Healthy Living and Traveling in Mexico" at Amazon.com 
Cover Photo of La Mujer Mazatleca Statue in Mazatlan