Retirement Before the Age of 59: An Extraordinary Copper Canyon Experience at a Tarahumara (Rarámuri) Farm

Thursday, June 27, 2024

An Extraordinary Copper Canyon Experience at a Tarahumara (Rarámuri) Farm

And An Unexpected Hike Off the Mountain!

A Gracious Tarahumara Couple at Their Farm

Our Copper Canyon Adventure tour included some unplanned adventures that created special memories for Jon and me that will remain with us forever. We stayed two nights at the wonderful Rancho Cabañas San Isidro Lodge near Urique, Chihuahua. Our guide was one of the ranch owners, a man very knowledgeable about Tarahumara life and culture.

Rancho Cabañas San Isidro Lodge Main Building

For two days, he drove us into the canyon, up and down steep dirt roads, to see many fascinating things. One of the most interesting was a Tarahumara farm in a remote area. We learned firsthand from the Tarahumara couple and our guides what pinole and tesgüino are, how they are made, and their cultural significance.

View of the Mountains and Pine Forest From the Farm

The Tarahumara are also known as Rarámuri, an indigenous people who live in the Copper Canyon in the Mexican state of Chihuahua. In their language, rarámuri means foot runners or those who run fast. Some families live in caves on the steep canyon walls, and many live on farms near springs, growing food for themselves. In the past, they hunted animals, running after them for long distances until their prey collapsed. The foot runners are known today for their ultramarathon champions, running in traditional clothing and sandals. See the Ultra Caballo Blanco Facebook page for more information and videos about today’s Tarahumara runners and the ultramarathons in the Copper Canyon.

Tarahumara Woman Stirring Corn Kernels Toasting Over Fire

When we arrived at the farm, high in the mountains surrounding the Copper Canyon, this Tarahumara woman was ready in her colorful traditional dress and head scarf. She was already roasting corn kernels over a small fire and eager to continue her demonstration of preparing pinole, a staple in their diet high in fiber, complex carbohydrates, and other nutrients.

She Demonstrated Constantly Stirring the Roasting Corn

My Turn to Stir the Roasting Corn—It Looked Easy But…

I tried stirring the corn over the fire, but some burned—I must not have stirred consistently and thoroughly. The woman casually picked the blackened kernels out of the hot pot with her fingers before continuing to stir until we heard corn popping. It was time for the next step.

Grinding the Roasted Maize (Corn) with a Metate

A Video of Her Strong Hands Grinding the Maize

View Video Above: Interesting Raramuri Technique of

Separating The Dry Shell from the Ground Corn Kernels

The pinole was ready when she had ground the corn to a fine powder. We all tasted it to learn about this significant Tarahumara staple. As a powder, it was very dry, fairly tasteless, and hard to swallow. I mixed it with water and tried drinking it, but that wasn’t much better. After adding a sweetener, it was okay, but I think it’s an acquired taste.

Endurance runners rely on pinole for energy, mixing the powder with fruit or other food before races. They eat pinole powder dry or sometimes sweetened with raw Mexican sugar or mixed with water during races as a power food.

Dry Pinole and Mixing It In A Drink

Jon Sampling Tesgüino, a Sacred Corn Beer

We were tasting tesgüino and looking around the farm when Michael Miller ran in to see what was happening. Michael and his wife, Kimberly, are marathon runners and organize the annual Caballo Blanco Ultramarathons in the Copper Canyon. They are knowledgeable about the Tarahumara culture, and Michael told me how these indigenous people make tesgüino.

Michael Sampling Tesgüino in Front of Bamboo Stalks

Michael said, “They geminate the corn (yes, blue here) and then hand grind it on a metate. They cook/boil it; it then sits to ferment for a couple of days before it develops some alcohol content (maybe 2-3%), and by the fifth and last day of still, it’s stronger (around 6-7% alcohol).”

Germinating Corn and A Cup of Tesgüino

Rarámuri people celebrate holidays with many hours of dancing and drinking tesgüino, often the day and night before a race. They consider this drink sacred and part of the ceremonies.

Rarámuri Grow Their Own Corn and Fruit on the Farm

Surprise Ending to the Day

Jon and I generously tipped each of our hosts after they finished the demonstration and farm tour. They smiled shyly and thanked us.

Then, there was a surprising turn of events! Our tour guide said his truck tires got stuck in the soft soil when he turned it around. He told us to start walking down the mountain, and he would have another ranch truck pick us up. Jon and I had worn flip-flops, as we weren't expecting any hikes on this tour!

Walking Over Rocks Down the Mountain in Flip-Flops!

Still Walking Through the Pine Forest as the Sun Set

Yeah! A Ranch Truck Arrived at Dusk!

What a memorable day! Luckily, we'd had a snack of pinole and tesgüino to fuel us on this hike. But we were hungry when we arrived back at the ranch house for dinner—boy, home-cooking tasted wonderful that night❣

I invite you to read some of our early adventures in my eBook, Retirement Before the Age of 59: Healthy Living in Mexico #2. Download it FREE with KindleUnlimited.