The Trip Itself Was an Adventure!
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| Discovering Magical Places in Mexico |
San Carlos, Sonora
After crossing the border into
Mexico, we looked forward to arriving at the Totonaka RV Park in San Carlos,
Sonora. The majestic red rock of Mount Tetakawi and the sparkling blue Sea of
Cortez greeted us as always, making us feel relief and joy that we were on our way home. It was hot when we arrived on that clear, sunny afternoon, as
it usually is in late October. But as soon as the sun dipped behind the
mountain, the breeze began to blow, and the evening turned comfortably cool.
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| One View from the Soggy Peso Bar |
Totonaka RV Park is a
full-service, dependable location to spend a few days. The internet is good and
the nightly rate is fair. We rested in the shade while we read our Kindles,
caught up on laundry in the park’s lavandería, and spent an afternoon at the
Soggy Peso bar watching the wind-surfers and listening to Mexican rock ‘n’
roll. Three relaxing days and we were ready for the next leg of our RV road
trip.
North of Navojoa, Sonora
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| Yaqui "Dance of the Deer" Statue |
As we were driving south toward
the city of Navojoa, we began to glimpse a very tall statue in the distance,
rising up out of the desert on the right-hand side of Highway 15D. The giant “Dance
of the Deer” sculpture has fascinated us for years as we have watched it being erected.
We have driven by it twice each year, once going north to the border in early summer and
again on our way south each autumn, wondering when it would be completed. It represents
the Yaqui indigenous group in this area, a tribe that is known for a
traditional dance done by a man wearing a deer head with antlers atop his head.
While the sculpture
has been completed for several years, the large park surrounding the statue has
never opened, as far as we can tell. This year, we were able to pull off at the
entrance to the park so that I could try to capture the majesty of this huge
monument with a photo. It’s one of those shrines that must be viewed in person to be fully appreciated.
Álamos, Sonora
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| Entrance to Alamos |
We hadn’t been to Álamos in over
ten years. Since that time, it has been
designated a Pueblo Mágico, so we decided to make that our overnight stop
between San Carlos and Mazatlán this trip. But that didn’t work out as planned! Does
anyone know what’s up with the RV parks in Álamos? There are three listed in
the last edition of Church and Church’s Mexican Camping book, but that was the
2009 edition. RV parks come and go (mostly go) in México, so we knew we needed
to verify whether any of them were still open. We started emailing and calling
all three to see which were still open.
Jon called Hotel Dolisa and RV Park and was told they do not accept RV’s any
longer. Their name and sign may still include “RV Park”, but it’s no longer
true.
Real de los Álamos RV Park was the next place Jon called. A man
answered so Jon asked him in Spanish if the park was open. “Si,” the man said.
Jon asked if there was space for our 28-foot motorhome. The answer was, “Si.” The
answer is usually “Si” to questions we ask in México, but not always true. When
we arrived at the gate on October 28, 2018, the gate was chained, the jungle
was taking over the park, and there was no one around. We tried calling on the
phone again. No answer. We sat in the motorhome, wondering if we wanted to
check out the third and final option.
Rancho Acosta B&B, RV Park and Guest Ranch is on the far side
of Álamos and the directions said RVs longer than 25 feet should not go through
the narrow streets of town. We could see that, as we approached the round-about
with the Pemex on the corner, the only way for us to get there was to turn left,
away from centro, and drive down the dry
arroyo (dry riverbed). That is, if the arroyo was dry. The rainy season was just ending, so we
wondered if there would be water flowing in it.
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| A Pedestrian Bridge Spans the Dry Arroyo in Alamos |
When we reached the arroyo, the bank down to it was a bit steep for our
rig and the riverbed was covered with fairly large, round rocks. I told Jon I didn't want to drive our “new-to-us” motorhome down that rocky riverbed. A local man approached
us and said he could show us the back way around town to the RV park. I asked
Jon to call them again, first, to make sure the park was open. No one answered
the phone, so we never did find out if it was open. We thanked the Mexican for
his offer of help and said we didn’t want to drive down a rough, dirt road for
a mile to a place that we weren’t sure was open.
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| Good Place for Pollos Asados--Yum! |
We were hot, hungry, and tired
by this time. The pollo asado store
was doing a good business on this Sunday afternoon, and the aroma of the grilling chicken, the skin golden brown and crisp, drew us near. We parked the RV and I sent Jon to order a whole
chicken with all the fixings, including corn tortillas, macaroni salad, and salsa. Since
it was over 90°F outside, too hot for us, and 95°F inside the motorhome, I turned on the
generator and air conditioner, and set the dinette table with paper plates, forks, and
lemonade in preparation for lunch. It’s such a treat to have our little home on wheels with us
all the time.
While Jon and I gorged ourselves
on the juicy, tasty pollo, we discussed our options for where to park for the
night. Our Garmin GPS said it was only about 75 miles, a 2-hour drive on two-lane
highways to Huatabampito. We had time to get there before dark, so we cleaned up
our lunch debris and hit the road.
Huatabampito, Sonora
Huatabampito was so much cooler when we arrived at El Mirador Hotel Restaurante & RV Park than it had
been in Álamos. The cool sea breeze, salty tang of the air, and the sound of
gently breaking waves were reminiscent of our home in Sayulita. We pulled our
RV right up to the seawall and parked for the night. We were glad we had decided to
leave Álamos and drive the extra distance to the beach.
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| Overnight Stay at El Mirador Hotel Restaurante & RV Park |
A young man and woman from
the United States came over to talk about how excited they were to be traveling
in México with their trailer for the first time. We exchange information about RV
Parks farther south and wished them a good trip.
Jon set up our beach chairs
facing the Sea of Cortez, a good place to watch the few people on the beach. I
pulled out some cheese and crackers, green olives, and glasses of wine. We
threw the ball for Bella and proclaimed that Huatabampito was going to be our overnight
place between San Carlos and Mazatlán from now on. It adds less than twenty
miles to the whole trip and is well worth the detour to be on the sea. The
restaurant at El Mirador is good also, just steps away when we don’t feel like
preparing a meal after the long day of travel.
Huatabampito has everything
we look for in an overnight stopping place—the sea to cool and soothe us, an RV
park with easy in and out access, a restaurant within walking distance, and a nice
beach for walking. It even has a hotel for those without an RV.
Mazatlán, Sinaloa
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| Mazatlan Sunset |
There’s so much we love about Mazatlán that we always spend five or six
days there twice a year. The sunsets are some of the most spectacular we’ve
ever seen.
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| A Typical Saturday Evening on the Mazatlan Malecon |
The newly refurbished Malecón (boardwalk along the ocean) is a perfect place to people watch,
especially on a Saturday evening. Families and couples stroll or sit, enjoying the cool evening.
We spent one Tuesday afternoon at the Diego’s listening to the Brenster
sing country music. Saturday night, we were lucky enough to catch the “Wingin’ It”
show with Lori Davidson and Rob Lamonica at Macaw’s in the Historic District.
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| Music by "Wingin' It" at Macaw's in Old Town Mazatlan |
One evening we decided to take our beach chairs, Bella, our wine bottles
(yes, two wine bottles—red for Jon and white for me), and wine glasses to the
beach for our happy hour while we watched the sunset. We got there right after the sun dropped below the
horizon, but we were just in time for some great entertainment. A group of about
sixty Mexican teenagers were having a wonderful time with sack races,
three-legged races, and singing what sounded like camp songs, enjoying organized
competitions that I haven’t seen since I was a youngster myself. Do kids even
do these things in the U.S. anymore? They laughed at themselves and each other
when the waves came up unexpectedly and caught them hopping down the beach in
their gunny sack. We laughed, too, as we enjoyed watching their happiness and determination
to win their games.
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| Gunny Sack Races on the Mazatlan Beach |
We discovered La Mona Pizzaria’s new location at Vicente Guerrero 213 in the Centro Historico, with the help of a
taxi driver. It’s larger and has a nice big viewable kitchen (the pizza ovens are no longer in the back parking lot), but we preferred
the ambiance of the original La Mona’s. The pizza and service are still as good
as always and they still flip a coin on Thursday, heads or tails for a free
drink.
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| The New La Mona Pizzeria's Kitchen |
San Fernando RV Park in Mazatlán’s Golden Zone has changed again. Each
time we arrive, it is smaller, though the pool is still there. Both ends of the
park has been closed for the construction of condominiums. We wonder if the RV
Park will even be open when we return to Mazatlán in July 2019. Thankfully,
there is still the Las Jaibas RV Park
and the Mar-A-Villa RV Park, though
they require a longer bus ride to Old Town. We really like staying in the Golden
Zone in our RV, where we are within walking distance
of so many good restaurants, but those days are coming to an end. We’ll still
visit Mazatlán often, but we’ll need to find a new favorite RV Park.
Puerto Vallarta,
Jalisco
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| Church and Plaza in Old Town Puerto Vallarta |
Puerto Vallarta is our favorite
big city in Mexico. Even though it is 25 miles past our home of Sayulita, we
always make the extra trip in our motorhome to visit for four or five days
before moving home. We love the Romantic Zone with its old churches, beautiful Malecón,
restaurants, live music, and so much more.
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| Time to Relax in Puerto Vallarta after a Long Day of Driving |
We took a slightly longer route south from Mazatlan, passing near Chapalilla, to stay on the
15D toll road longer, making a wide circle around the small town of Xalisco (I recommend the book "Dreamland" for more information on that town), and avoiding the
coastal road through San Blas, which was pretty rough when we took it two years ago. The route we took this year was a little longer, but we
prefer it. After 315 miles and eight hours of driving from Mazatlán, we pulled
into the Puerto Vallarta Trailer Park, relieved to be able to park in this
peaceful, tropical garden setting and relax.
One tip about staying in RV Parks with coconut palm trees: remember to
look overhead to make sure you aren't parking, sitting, or walking under a tree
loaded with large coconuts. A single coconut dropping on the rig, on the dog, or
on someone's head can cause serious damage.
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| Beware--Don't Stay Beneath a Loaded Coconut Palm Tree |
Dia de Muertos ended on November 2, so we arrived in Puerto Vallarta
after the festivities. But some large, exquisite Catrinas (dapper skeletons) were still posing on the Malecón. Interspersed
between the bronze sculptures on the walkway along the Pacific Ocean, the Catrinas created a whimsical contrast.
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| La Catrina on the Puerto Vallarta Malecon |
We strolled south on the
mile-long Malecón, looking for the perfect seafood restaurant to celebrate our 25th
anniversary. We have two anniversaries each year, one in November and one in
February—that’s a long story in itself. This way we have an extra excuse to
go out for a special dinner. We finally decided on La Palapa Restaurant, a
wonderful beachfront restaurant that we had never tried. Yes, it was a bit
expensive, but we couldn’t have asked for better food, wine, service, and ambiance.
It’s two blocks south of the Los Muertos Pier, so we got a whole new perspective
of its lighted sails and the romantic evening shoreline.
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| View of Los Muertos Pier from La Palapa Restaurant |
Historic photos line the walls
inside La Palapa, telling the story
of its inception in 1957, when Rodelinda and her husband, Guy Dickey had a
dream to open the first restaurant on the beach in Puerto Vallarta. Later
photos show how it changed as the city evolved. 60 years old, and La Palapa Restaurant
is still famous and successful.
We will definitely
return there, maybe on our next anniversary in three months. The evening was
perfect—perfect air temperature, perfect company, perfect experience. Jon and I
are living our dream—never a dull moment in México.
Sayulita, Nayarit
We returned to our casita (little Mexican home) in Sayulita on November 14, exactly three weeks after we crossed the Mexican border. We certainly didn’t rush home!
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| Entrance to Sayulita Plaza for Dia de Muertos |
The plaza in Sayulita was still partially decorated from the Dia de
Muertos holidays, looking colorful and festive. The archway at the entrance was
covered with large colorful paper flowers.
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| Dia de Muertos Flags Fluttered in the Plaza Gazebo |
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| Hand-made Skeleton Fish “Swam” Overhead in the Entire Plaza |
There are so many fun things to do in Mexico, the trip home is always an
adventure! And as with each time we return to Sayulita, we are happy to be
home. This is our fourth year since we left the full-time RVing life and moved
into our casita. We know this year will bring many changes to Sayulita, a
popular Pueblo Mágico, and there will
be “never a dull moment” in this village. We look forward to being a part of
the change, helping to make our town a better place, any way we can.
After a week back home, eating our fill of seafood and Mexican food, we look forward to a traditional American Thanksgiving dinner at Don Pedro's Restaurant while we listen to the Spanish Flamenco music of Latcho and Andrea, the Blond Gypsies. Another adventure to look
forward to. Happy Thanksgiving!
I invite you to SIGN UP for my "Healthy Living and Traveling in Mexico Newsletter", published monthly with stories about our latest adventures, my recent blog articles, and news about my books.
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| Terry L Turrell, Author |
I invite you to sign up for my "Healthy Living and Traveling in Mexico Newletter", published monthly, with stories about our latest adventures, my recent blog articles, and new about my books. Click Here to Sign Up
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